Climbing into the back of a falling apart pick up truck, I knew that this wouldn’t be a comfortable ride. Kyle and I were all templed out so we decided to spend our final day in Bagan visiting the nearby Mount Popa – only an hour or so out-of-town.
The ride there and back was the most interesting part of the day – we drove through the Burmese countryside and got to see how people actually live. Maybe it was the heat, but it didn’t seem that anyone did much at all. Everyone was sitting outside chatting and watching everyone walk past – waving at the strange farang riding around in the back of a ute. The further we drove the less houses we saw until finally we couldn’t see anything in any direction. But every time we started to think we were the only people around a child would pop out of no where and yell hello to us, or we would pass some ox and cart drivers, or women walking down the road with bundles on their heads.
Ox and cart - one of many en route to Mount Popa
After a very bumpy ride, we arrived at Mount Popa where there is a temple at the top of the mountain as well as scores of monkeys. Now, don’t be fooled. These monkeys are actually vicious killers – one in particular attempted to kill me. So dodging the evil monkeys, monkey piss, beggars and souvenir sellers, Kyle and I began the long climb to the top of the mountain.
The killer monkey - the photo is a bit blurry because I had to run for my life.
The trip up the mountain was tiring, but handy benches and a very impressive view made the trip very worthwhile. At the top there were temples and statues – same as everywhere else. I found the view to be the best thing about the temple.
Half-way up the mountain
An impressive view and a handy bench
When we eventually made it back down the mountain, we hopped back in the ute and attempted to wash all the monkey piss off our feet while the ute was bouncing down the dirt track. Maybe next time we should take some wet wipes or something to clean off? Once back in Bagan, Kyle and I had a delicious bowl of home-made pasta – they actually made it while we were waiting – and then got back on the bus for a hellish trip back to Yangon. I was sitting next to a fat Burmese man who kept leaning on my in my sleep and was too heavy for me to push-off. Needless to say, when we finally arrived 14 hours later I was not at my friendliest or most entertaining.
A short nap later and we were ready to hit the town. We walked to meet Chad at his hotel, but got a bit lost on the way (this was my fault as I believed the man who gave us directions), and then the three of us took a two-minute cab ride to the Bogyoke Aung San Market. The market was chock-a-block full of every type of souvenir you could possibly want – paintings, lacquerware, wood carvings, fabric, statues… not to mention a number of money changers who were only too happy to give you a great exchange rate – that or rip you off, one of the two. I went a little painting crazy in this market and ended up with 2 massive oil paintings, spending the last of my kyat and dollars and haggling like a pro.
That evening we visited the Shwedagon Temple along with busloads of Thai tourists. The amount of gold in this temple complex is astonishing and even the flashing disco lights around the statues could not detract from the beauty of the temple. The three of us created quite a scene, particularly as I was wearing a traditional longyi (to cover up my legs – shorts to the knee are clearly much too revealing). As the sun set teams of men and women swept the complex clean.
Synchronized sweeping
Despite our best efforts to find somewhere to go out for our final night in Yangon, everywhere was closed (despite being an Saturday) and so the three of us stayed in for a movie night – hindered only by the power cutting out every time there was a crucial moment in the film.
The next morning everyone was sick and not too interested in doing anything much. Convenient as there isn’t anything particular to DO in Burma. Instead, Kyle and I wandered the streets aimlessly – one of my favourite things to do while traveling. Everyone in the streets stopped to stare at us, say hello and ask us where we were from. Understandably, we began to feel like zoo animals. The streets of Yangon are so interesting to walk down – there are stall sellers with everything they own on trays in front of them, beggars, food stands, monks, men chewing betel nut as well as fantastic houses. I loved looking at the colonial-style buildings jumbled in with the more Asian-style. The whole city had a step-back in time feel to it with a mixture of elements from fifty years ago with those from today.
Building in the old quarter
Lovely mansion - no idea who could afford to live there
Rainy Yangon
Overall I loved Burma – the people are lovely, the temples impressive and city bustling and lively. However, take your own food – traditional Myanmar food is terrible. As much as I liked it there, I was so happy to be back in Bangkok with the yummy food, street drainage, better food hygiene and more readily available medicine.
Oh, and make sure you save USD10 for the departure tax at the airport – otherwise you have to walk around like an idiot asking people to trade baht for dollars. Not that we had to do that… if only I hadn’t bought that last painting! Begging in an airport at 7 am isn’t one of my favourite things to do.
Alas, I am hours away from leaving Bangkok – heading to dreary England where I know I will freeze. My air-conditioner is set to a warmer temperature than their most recent ‘heatwave’. The start of a new adventure!
That is pretty awesome that you got to go there. How did you manage to get a visa? I know that the government is really strict on who goes in.
Wish I could’ve gone to Rangoon but only managed a border run at Ranong. At least I can say that, *technically*, I’ve been to Burma ;)
It wasn’t that hard to get a visa – they now do them on arrival, but I don’t exactly trust that system, so I applied for one before in Bangkok. It only took 2 days but they ask you lots of questions about former employers. It is unlikely you will get approved if you are a journalist, photographer, UN worker, etc.
If you fly in then you are allowed to go to more places (Yangon- Inle Lake- Bagan – Mandalay) than if you do a border run.
What was Ranong like? Is it a small village? Or city?
[...] their everyday life. Although in some cases you get more than you bargained for as was the case for my Burmese bus adventure. Another aspect of that ride that I failed to mention was the drug crazed loony sitting two seats [...]